Quick-Charge Battery Charger for eZip® 1000, E1000, and E-1000 Electric OEM battery charger for the eZip® 1000 series electric scooter. For battery chargers with 4-pin plugs.īattery Pack Wiring Harness for eZip® 1000, E1000, and E-1000 Electricīattery Charger for eZip® 1000, E1000, and E-1000 Electric Scooterīattery charger for the eZip® 1000 series electric scooter. Allows one battery pack to be recharged outside of the scooter while the other battery pack is installed in the scooter and being used. Outside of the scooter while the other battery pack is installed in the scooter and being used. Forīattery pack charging adapter for the eZip® 1000 series electric scooter. Includes 12 month battery replacement warranty.Īdapter for eZip® 1000, E1000, and E-1000 Electric Scooterīattery pack charging adapter for the eZip® 1000 series electric scooter. Soft case with built-in handle, and pre-installed wiring harness. Includes three 12 Volt 10Ah pre-wired batteries, heavy-duty woven nylon zippered Plug-and-play battery pack for the eZip® 1000 series electric scooter. Includesīattery Pack with Case and Wiring Harness for eZip® 1000, E1000, and I have one of each of the 750w at the moment and since I might have some time on my hands right away it's time to get back to work.Set of three 12 Volt 10Ah batteries for the eZip® 1000 series electric scooter. The experience I have so far with MY10# motors is they've been durable in experiments but haven't provided huge gains.ĭo you have the open chain drive or the enclosed housing? I'm wondering if the enclosed is as durable. So 18a? What your 24v controller REALLY passes through is a good guess. I remember my 350w claiming it was 40a but inside was labelled as "24v - 440w" actually passing through. You can't get far on these, but you might take a few minutes off the trip to work. The multiple plugs on the throttles let you ramp up slowly on the speed, as suggested. It is good to reference the exact theoretical gain rather than 'Rounding,' the difference won't be much. ![]() So a current 14mph peak might fall short of getting up to 21mph, 16mph may or may not make it to 24mph, etc. Since it's getting argued, 24v to 36v is 50% more, theoretically you get to 3,900rpm but probably not really. If I could get my hands on the 900w and 1000w I could test all that out. These bigger scooters all claim 2,600rpm but with differing winds in the motor, so it would be a question of can you get to speed as well, carry a load as well, go uphill as well as you would with the 36v motor. The 36v equivilent would be 1350w, right? They all use the same sprocket and pinion, the old 350w really struggled. ![]() The 750w and the 900w use the same 24v controller. I'm assuming there's some protrusion with that smaller 3rd battery. But a 3rd fullsize battery won't fit below the footboard. You get one more wire with those plugs to insert a 3rd battery. You take the batteries out and you have 2 - 12v with plug connections. How much faster would it go? If it's only couple MPH faster, I don't think it'd be worth the ~$170 it'll cost to upgrade this.Īh, the Currie playground. Is that it? So just unplug the old controller, plug the new one in, plug the 36V battery set (with extended 3rd battery), and it's good? I need a 36V controller (the controller on my scooter specifically says "24V" and is a 5-pin):Īs the battery set will not fit inside the 24V enclosure, I would need to cut the connection between the 2-pack, and extend the wires to wherever I decide to put the 3rd battery. I would like to go faster, but not spend too much money to do so, so would like to overvolt to 36V (as opposed to 48V, where I'd have to replace the motor and throttle (I've read that 24V->36V = don't need to replace the 24V motor)). The max speed is 14-15 mph with me on it (according to my phone's GPS).
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